Surf Is Where You Find It

Author: Gerry Lopez
Publisher: Patagonia
ISBN: 9781938340253
Release Date: 2015-04-17
Genre: Sports & Recreation

Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport — surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories about pioneering that sport. Conveyed in Gerry's unique voice, augmented with photos from his personal collection, this book is a classic for surf enthusiasts everywhere.

Surf Is Where You Find It

Author: Gerry Lopez
Publisher: Patagonia
ISBN: 9781938340048
Release Date: 2013-10-06
Genre: Sports & Recreation

Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have been influential in the sport — surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way. Lopez, an innovator in stand-up-paddle (one of the fastest growing water sports in the world), now shares his stories about pioneering that sport. Conveyed in Gerry's unique voice, augmented with photos from his personal collection, this book is a classic for surf enthusiasts everywhere.

No Bad Waves

Author:
Publisher: Patagonia
ISBN: 9781938340086
Release Date: 2013-10-06
Genre: Sports & Recreation

Mickey Muñoz has been called the “surfer’s surfer,” and is loved and respected among the cognoscenti for his contributions to surfing and the surfing life for the past 60 years as a surfer, a pioneer of Waimea Bay, a stuntman (stand-in for Gidget), a board shaper and designer, and as a sailor and boatbuilder (America’s Cup). Mentored by the Malibu greats of the ’40s, and an influence on generations of surfers since, Mickey weaves the story of a California waterman using his own life and that of his friends.

Barbarian Days

Author: William Finnegan
Publisher: Penguin
ISBN: 9780143109396
Release Date: 2016-04-26
Genre: Biography & Autobiography

Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses -- off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves.

Pipe Dreams

Author: Kelly Slater
Publisher: Harper Collins
ISBN: 9780060096311
Release Date: 2004-07-27
Genre: Biography & Autobiography

Six–time world surfing champion, actor, and US heart–throb Kelly Slater tells of the struggles and triumphs he's experienced throughout his life and how they have helped him to become one of the world's most loved sports figures. From beach blanket bingo to Baywatch, surfing has fascinated people for years, and Kelly Slater is the sport's newest star. He's one of the world's most popular surfers; his radical moves have revolutionised the sport. Born in Cocoa Beach, Florida, in 1972, he found surfing to be a great way to escape problems at home. When he was 11, his parents divorced. Slater and his brother, Sean, were raised by their suddenly single mother, who struggled to support two young sons. After Slater's surfing career took off, he made the transition into acting and modelling. He spent a season starring on the popular television show Baywatch, where he won the hearts of women young and old, including Pamela Anderson, whom he dated for about a year. He has also been featured in Versace ads. In Pipe Dreams, he shares the stories that have influenced his life and have inspired him to overcome both personal and professional hurdles and achieve his dreams.

All for a Few Perfect Waves

Author: David Rensin
Publisher: Harper Collins
ISBN: 9780061868160
Release Date: 2009-03-17
Genre: Biography & Autobiography

For twenty years, Miki "Da Cat" Dora was the king of Malibu surfers—a dashing, enigmatic rebel who dominated the waves, ruled his peers' imaginations, and who still inspires the fantasies of wannabes to this day. And yet, Dora railed against surfing's sudden post-Gidget popularity and the overcrowding of his once empty waves, even after this avid sportsman, iconoclast, and scammer of wide repute ran afoul of the law and led the FBI on a remarkable seven-year chase around the globe in 1974. The New York Times named him "the most renegade spirit the sport has yet to produce" and Vanity Fair called him "a dark prince of the beach." To fully capture Dora's never-before-told story, David Rensin spent four years interviewing hundreds of Dora's friends, enemies, family members, lovers, and fellow surfers to uncover the untold truth about surfing's most outrageous practitioner, charismatic antihero, committed loner, and enduring mystery.

Welcome to Paradise Now Go to Hell

Author: Chas Smith
Publisher: Harper Collins
ISBN: 9780062202543
Release Date: 2013-11-19
Genre: Sports & Recreation

A finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell, is surfer and former war reporter Chas Smith’s wild and unflinching look at the high-stakes world of surfing on Oahu’s North Shore—a riveting, often humorous, account of beauty, greed, danger, and crime. For two months every winter, when Pacific storms make landfall, swarms of mainlanders, Brazilians, Australians, and Europeans flock to Oahu’s paradisiacal North Shore in pursuit of some of the greatest waves on earth for surfing’s Triple Crown competition. Chas Smith reveals how this influx transforms a sleepy, laid-back strip of coast into a lawless, violent, drug-addled, and adrenaline-soaked mecca. Smith captures this exciting and dangerous place where locals, outsiders, the surf industry, and criminal elements clash in a fascinating look at class, race, power, money, and crime, set within one of the most beautiful places on earth. The result is a breathtaking blend of crime and adventure that captures the allure and wickedness of this idyllic golden world.

Surf Shack

Author: Nina Freudenberger
Publisher: Clarkson Potter
ISBN: 9780451496058
Release Date: 2017-04-04
Genre: Design

Peek inside the bungalows, trailers, and beach homes where surfers retreat after a day on the waves. Surf Shack highlights longtime enthusiasts and dedicated newcomers whose homes reflect not just a sport or a passion, but also a way of life. These quiet harbors embrace a casual ease, the break between the waves. Vibrant photographs of design details and bright beaches from Malibu to the Rockaways, from Kamagawa to Torquay capture the soulful milieu of a lifestyle we all aspire to.

Surfing with Sartre

Author: Aaron James
Publisher: Anchor
ISBN: 9780385540742
Release Date: 2017-08-08
Genre: Philosophy

From the bestselling author of Assholes: A Theory, a book that—in the tradition of Shopclass as Soulcraft, Barbarian Days and Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance—uses the experience and the ethos of surfing to explore key concepts in philosophy. The existentialist philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre once declared "the ideal limit of aquatic sports . . . is waterskiing." The avid surfer and lavishly credentialed academic philosopher Aaron James vigorously disagrees, and in Surfing with Sartre he intends to expound the thinking surfer's view of the matter, in the process elucidating such philosophical categories as freedom, being, phenomenology, morality, epistemology, and even the emerging values of what he terms "leisure capitalism." In developing his unique surfer-philosophical worldview, he draws from his own experience of surfing and from surf culture and lingo, and includes many relevant details from the lives of the philosophers, from Aristotle to Wittgenstein, with whose thought he engages. In the process, he'll speak to readers in search of personal and social meaning in our current anxious moment, by way of doing real, authentic philosophy.

Kook

Author: Peter Heller
Publisher: Simon and Schuster
ISBN: 9781439171813
Release Date: 2010-07-13
Genre: Biography & Autobiography

Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog Stars With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean’s beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave— that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder—in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits. As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.

Caught Inside

Author: Daniel Duane
Publisher: Macmillan
ISBN: 0865475091
Release Date: 1997-04-10
Genre: Biography & Autobiography

Recounts a year of surfing in California, shares observations on Pacific shore ecology, and looks at the history of the state and surfing

The Spanish Tercios 1536 1704

Author: Ignacio J.N. López
Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
ISBN: 9781849087940
Release Date: 2012-07-20
Genre: History

A mixed infantry formation made up of about 3,000 men armed with pikes, swords and handguns, the innovative and influential tercio or 'Spanish square' was the basic combat unit of the armies of Spain throughout much of the 16th and 17th centuries. Arguably the first permanent tactical formation seen in Europe since the Roman cohort, the tercio was the forerunner of modern formations such as the battalion and regiment. The variety of different weapons fielded in the tercio meant the Spanish infantry could resist opposing cavalry forces while overcoming every kind of enemy infantry deployed against them. Featuring full-colour artwork and photographs of rare items held at the Spanish Army Museum, this study covers the whole period during which the tercios were active, opening with the third Italian war between the forces of France and the Holy Roman Emperor and concluding with the final transformation of the Spanish tercios into regiments in 1704.

Let My People Go Surfing

Author: Yvon Chouinard
Publisher: Penguin
ISBN: 9781101992531
Release Date: 2016-09-06
Genre: Business & Economics

In this newly revised 10th anniversary edition, Yvon Chouinard--legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc.--shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian handyman to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment, Let My People Go Surfing is the story of a man who brought doing good and having grand adventures into the heart of his business life-a book that will deeply affect entrepreneurs and outdoor enthusiasts alike. "This is the story of an attempt to do more than change a single corporation--it is an attempt to challenge the culture of consumption tat is at the hear of the global ecological crisis." --From the Foreword by Naomi Klein, bestselling author of This Changes Everything From the Trade Paperback edition.

In Search of Captain Zero

Author: Alan C. Weisbecker
Publisher: Tarcher
ISBN: 1585421774
Release Date: 2002-09-01
Genre: Biography & Autobiography

A surfer, photojournalist, and author describes his two-year odyssey from Mexico to Central America to search for his missing long-time friend and surfing companion, Christopher Conner, and his bizarre adventures along the way.

Bend to Baja

Author: Jeff Johnson
Publisher: Rowman & Littlefield
ISBN: 9781589799318
Release Date: 2015-11-15
Genre: Sports & Recreation

Bend to Baja documents a surf-inspired road trip along the West Coast of North America. In February 2005, a group of world-renowned surfers left Ventura, California, for Bend, Oregon. From Oregon, the crew worked its way south to the tip of Baja, looking for waves and traveling in a pickup truck converted to run on alternative fuel sources: veggie oil and biodiesel. Jeff Johnson, along with Chris, Keith, and Dan Malloy, experienced a road trip centered on surfing, climbing, and camping. Along the way, they met an array of characters, found rich, road-weathered experiences, and endured setbacks, all against the backdrop of a captivating ocean. Bend to Baja chronicles their journey and a nontraditional lifestyle centered on the search for waves.