Mental training is scarcely covered in the climbing literature, yet it is as important to performance as strength, flexibility, and technique. In his unique approach to mental training, Arno Ilgner draws essential elements from the rich "warrior" literature, as well as from sports psychology, and combines these with his extensive climbing experience to create The Warrior’s Way ®. - Here is a comprehensive program for learning how to focus your mental resources during a challenging climb. It includes step-by-step guidance on motivation analysis, information gathering, risk assessment, mental focus, and deliberate transition into action. - Poor use of attention creates fear, which can manifest itself as anything from performance anxiety to sheer terror. By using attention more purposefully we can understand how fear is created, deal with it effectively, and free ourselves to get back in touch with a far more powerful motivating force: our love of climbing. We can then create the kind of unbending intention that leads to outstanding performance. The Warrior’s Way ® is a revolutionary program for climbers who want to improve both their performance and their enjoyment of climbing.
The Rock Warrior’s Way: Mental Training for Climbers, first published in 2003, outlines the foundation of the Warrior’s Way ® material. Espresso Lessons takes the material into practical climbing situations. It is the “how to” application of The Rock Warrior’s Way, intended to build upon and complement it. - Mental fitness training is simply improving your ability to keep attention in the moment. The most challenging—and interesting— moment in rock climbing is when your mind doubts whether or not you can continue climbing. Knowing when it is appropriate to push through this doubt and when to back off is critical for taking appropriate risks. - Espresso Lessons helps you take appropriate risks. It is an intentional approach to risk-taking that includes very specific processes for gathering information, assessing risks, making risk decisions, and taking effective action. - Many climbers ignore or avoid falling. Espresso Lessons addresses falling head-on, through intentional falling practice. It also includes specific exercises to practice all phases of risk-taking, allowing you to integrate the Warrior’s Way ® material in a practical and tangible way.
Author: Don McGrath
Release Date: 2014-04-05
Genre: Rock climbing
In Vertical Mind, Don McGrath and Jeff Elison teach rock climbers how to improve their mental game so they can climb better and have more fun. They teach how the latest research in brain science and psychology can help you retrain your mind and body for higher levels of rock climbing performance, while also demonstrating how to train and overcome fears and anxiety that hold you back. Finally, they teach climbing partners how to engage in co-creative coaching and help each other improve as climbers.With numerous and practical step-by-step drills and exercises, in a simple to follow training framework, your path to harder climbing has never been clearer. If you are a climber who wants to climb harder and have more fun climbing, then Vertical Mind is required reading. Well, what's stopping you? Pick it up and get training today!
A dynamic package of training material from a pair of expert coaches, The Self-Coached Climber offers comprehensive instruction, from the basics of gripping holds to specific guidelines for developing a customized improvement plan. Hague and Hunter base their methods on the four fundamental components of all human movement--balance, force, time, and space--and explain how to apply these principles to achieve efficient results. The DVD presents live demonstrations of training exercises and features an original documentary of a 5.14a/b redpoint attempt by Adam Stack and Chris Lindner. Self-Coached Climber was named a finalist in the Mountain Exposition Category at the 2007 Banff Mountain Festival.
The definitive resource to brain-training for climbing—by an internationally recognized expert As physical as climbing is, it is even more mental. Ultimately, people climb with their minds—hands and feet are merely extensions of their thoughts and will. Becoming a master climber requires that you first master your mind. In Maximum Climbing, America’s best-selling author on climbing performance presents a climber’s guide to the software of the brain—one that will prove invaluable whether one's preference is bouldering, sport climbing, traditional climbing, alpine climbing, or mountaineering. Eric Hörst brings unprecedented clarity to the many cognitive and neurophysical aspects of climbing and dovetails this information into a complete program, setting forth three stages of mental training that correspond to beginner, intermediate, and elite levels of experience and commitment—the ideal template to build upon to personalize one's goals through years of climbing to come.
Drawing on new research in sports medicine, nutrition, and fitness, this book offers a training program to help any climber achieve superior performance and better mental concentration on the rock, with less risk of injury.
Author: Mark Twight
Publisher: The Mountaineers Books
Release Date: 1999-08-31
Genre: Sports & Recreation
* The book that launched a renaissance in climbing technique and remains relevant today * Techniques and mental skills needed to climb at a more challenging level * Illustrated with full-color photos throughout Big, high routes at the edge of a climber's ability are not the places for inventing technique or relying on old habits. Complacency can lead to fatal errors. So where does the hard-core aspirant or dreamer turn? The only master class in print, Extreme Alpinism delivers an expert dose of reality and practical techniques for advanced climbers. Focusing on how top alpine climbers approach the world's most difficult routes, Twight centers his instruction on the ethos of climbing the hardest routes with the least amount of gear and the most speed. Throughout, Twight makes it clear that the two things he refuses to compromise are safety and his climbing ethics. In addition to the extensive chapters on advanced techniques and skills, Twight also discusses mental preparedness and attitude; strength and cardiovascular training; good nutrition; and tips on equipment and clothing.
Author: Steve House
Release Date: 2014-03-11
Genre: Sports & Recreation
In Training for the New Alpinism, Steve House, world-class climber and Patagonia ambassador, and Scott Johnston, coach of U.S. National Champions and World Cup Nordic Skiers, translate training theory into practice to allow you to coach yourself to any mountaineering goal. Applying training practices from other endurance sports, House and Johnston demonstrate that following a carefully designed regimen is as effective for alpinism as it is for any other endurance sport and leads to better performance. They deliver detailed instruction on how to plan and execute training tailored to your individual circumstances. Whether you work as a banker or a mountain guide, live in the city or the country, are an ice climber, a mountaineer heading to Denali, or a veteran of 8,000-meter peaks, your understanding of how to achieve your goals grows exponentially as you work with this book. Chapters cover endurance and strength training theory and methodology, application and planning, nutrition, altitude, mental fitness, and assessing your goals and your strengths. Chapters are augmented with inspiring essays by world-renowned climbers, including Ueli Steck, Mark Twight, Peter Habeler, Voytek Kurtyka, and Will Gadd. Filled with photos, graphs, and illustrations.
Rock Climbing: The AMGA Single Pitch Manual is intended to serve as a textbook for past and furture participants of the AMGA SPI program. The book more specifically address the needs of the professional cilmbing instructor and advanced recreational climbers. It presents the most current, internationally recognized standards for technical climbing systems used in single pitch rock terrain. Included are chapters on effective teaching in the outdoor environment, risk management, professionalism, environmental awareness, and rescue
9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes - navigation through the maze of advice for the self-coached climber 9 out of 10 climbers are stuck. They are stuck on the same things. Some of the things that hold climbers back from improving their climbing standard are the same as they were twenty years ago: motivation, managing time, and not being able to analyse and correct their own basic technical or tactical errors. But they are also stuck for a new set of reasons. Twenty years ago, the problem was that no one knew how to train for climbing. Information was scarce and couldn't travel fast among the participants. Today, it's the opposite problem. Book after book lists techniques for climbing, exercises for climbing, tips for climbing. Navigating this barrage of information, filtering out the irrelevant and homing in on what matters to your life, your climbing and your circumstances has been the limiting step for today's climber. This book is the first to present the science of improving at climbing in a way that will actually help you make confident decisions and stay focused on the things that will make the biggest difference. Dave Macleod has crystallised 16 years experience as a world class climber, sport scientist and renowned coach into an accessible and thought provoking guide to improving at rock climbing.
• Approximately 35 new techniques, safety considerations, and subjects • National Outdoor Book Award winner in first edition • First edition of this popular title has sold 50,000 copies Thousands of rock climbers have learned the sport using Craig Luebben’s seminal and bestselling text, Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills. Now Craig’s friend and fellow climber Topher Donahue brings the content up to current standards and includes technological advances, while preserving Craig’s comprehensive approach. An award-winning climber in his own right, Topher uses his writing and photography skills to simplify the complex world of modern climbing technique and reveals the thought process behind safe and practical climbing methods. This second edition includes European climbing techniques that offer alternatives to those traditionally taught in North America. Topher has also incorporated new lessons derived from accidents due, in part, to the increased popularity of climbing. Also found in this edition: • Over 10,000 more words and 125 more photos • Three never-before-published techniques: Adjustable Hitch, High Friction Tubes, and Bight Method • Detailed technical updates throughout • New distinction between “anchor” (a group of placements, pieces, or bolts used at the end of a pitch or for top rope or rappel setup) and “placement” or “piece” (individual cams, nuts, etc., used in groups to make an anchor or used individually as protection on a pitch)
The essential manual for intermediate climbers who want to make the jump to advanced climbing ability—with new color photos In the sport of rock climbing, 5.12 is a magical grade of difficulty—the rating that separates intermediate climbers from the sport's elite. Many intermediate climbers mistakenly believe that climbs of 5.12 difficulty are simply beyond their reach. This revised and updated edition of Eric Horst's best-selling instructional manual dispels that myth, and shows average climbers how they can achieve heights previously considered the exclusive domain of the full-time climber. How to Climb 5.12 is a performance guidebook that will help climbers attain the most rapid gains in climbing ability possible. Hörst provides streamlined tips and suggestions on such critical issues as cutting-edge strength training, mental training, and climbing strategy. How to Climb 5.12 is the perfect manual to help intermediate climbers quickly along the road to mastery.
Rock climbers have an inherent interest in geology. For some, it's about knowing what gear to use or how to avoid rotten bands of rock. For others, it's about finding the next hot-spot boulder field, or understanding why their local crag exists. For most of them, curiosity about rocks comes as naturally as their desire to climb them. Geology is the fundamental control on the sport, and yet there are no practical guides for the climber interested in rocks. Flakes, Jugs, and Splitters fills the niche. With an informal Q&A format and fun, informative language, it brings the often esoteric science of geology into the hands of rock climbers. Covering topics from how to use a geologic map to finding new crags, from why Europe has the best limestone to how El Capitan's North America Wall got its name, this book has a fact for every climber's ponderings. Top-quality photographs of worldwide destinations and easy-to-read artist's renderings of geologic concepts make it as visually engaging as it is entertaining and edifying.
CLICK HERE to download the chapter called, "Anchor Basics" from Rock Climbing Anchors (Provide us with a little information and we'll send your download directly to your inbox) "Climbing anchors allow climbers to safely defy gravity. Solid anchors and proper rope techniques can prevent a fall from turning into a catastrophe, while bad anchors are an accident waiting to happen," says certified guide Craig Luebben, who invented his own type of climbing protection, the Big Bro. Since then, he taught rock climbing to hundreds of clients and has conducted self-rescue clinics across the United States. He distills more than twenty-five years of experience into Rock Climbing Anchors. This entry in the Mountaineers Outdoor Expert Series, for intermediate-to-advanced climbers, presents modern anchoring ideas and techniques for top-roping, rappelling, sport climbing, traditional rock climbing, and mountaineering-all in one comprehensive guide. Luebben covers the finer points of all types of commonly used anchors: removable anchors including hexes, wired nuts, tri-cams, expanding wedges, expandable tubes, and cams; natural anchors such as trees and boulders; and fixed anchors like bolts and pitons. Photos show a variety of gear placements, accompanied by discussion of the pros and cons of each.